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Old Cayenne is a walking city, and only a walking city. The streets are narrow, parking is awkward, and everything worth seeing sits within a few blocks: a wide square planted with royal palms, a covered market, streets of wooden Creole houses, a cathedral, a hill with the remains of a fort, and the sea at the end of it. You can do the whole thing in one morning without touching the car.
Here is a seven-stop route, ordered to cut out backtracking and keep you in the shade as long as possible. We have added what actually matters on the ground: when to set off, what to do when the rain comes, and where to stay so that you step out of the door already in the old town. For exact opening times, guided tours and current exhibitions, ask the tourist office — opening days vary.
1. Place des Palmistes: the starting point
It all begins here. Place des Palmistes was laid out in 1821, once the old fortifications came down, and takes its name from the royal palms planted a few years later. They are still standing, very tall and very straight. Two landmarks anchor the esplanade: the Republic column, raised in 1890, and the statue of Félix Éboué, installed in 1957. Sit down for five minutes before you set off — this is the best place to pick up the rhythm of the city.
2. The Franconie museum and Place Schœlcher
A short walk away, the Musée départemental Alexandre-Franconie occupies a Creole house bequeathed to the authorities in 1884 by Gustave Franconie. The collections are French Guiana in miniature: history, natural sciences, crafts. Opening days vary, so check before you go. Next door is Place Victor-Schœlcher, where the statue of the abolitionist the square is named after was pulled down in July 2020.
3. The covered market
Cayenne’s central market sits on Place du Coq. According to the French Guiana tourism board, it opens on Wednesday, Friday and Saturday, with hours that vary from day to day. Come early, before the heat and before the stalls thin out.
You will find local fruit and vegetables, chillies, spices, basketwork and crafts, and above all the food stalls: the Asian soups served at the market are a local institution. If the market is shut on the day you pass, save this stop for another morning.
4. The Creole streets
Between Place des Palmistes and the cathedral, leave the main roads for the side streets. This is where Cayenne’s Creole architecture lives: timber houses on stone bases, narrow frontages, louvred shutters, colours faded by the humidity. Look up — the detail is in the carved fretwork under the eaves. Keep it discreet: these are private homes in a lived-in neighbourhood.
5. Saint-Sauveur Cathedral
Saint-Sauveur Cathedral is one of the great landmarks of the centre. Work began in 1825 and finished in 1833, but the building was not inaugurated until 1861; it became a cathedral in the 1930s. The interior is plain, bright and very high-ceilinged, and the shade is welcome. It is a working church: come in quietly, and turn back if a service is under way.
6. Place Léopold-Héder and Fort Cépérou
Carry on to Place Léopold-Héder, which many people still call Place Grenoble: administrative buildings, trees, and the start of the climb. Fort Cépérou stands above the mouth of the Cayenne river. It is named after an Amerindian chief, and it is where the city began.
Fortification remains, a vaulted gateway and a watchtower are still there, along with a view that reaches north and east over the ocean and south-west over the river and the rooftops of the old town. This is the steepest part of the walk and the only stretch with no shade. Guided tours can be arranged through the tourist office.
7. The waterfront
Walk back down to the waterfront at the foot of the headland. The water is ochre, almost brown: that is Amazon sediment carried along the Guiana coast, not pollution. Most visitors are surprised at first, then won over by those late-afternoon colours on the mudflats and mangroves. It is the right place to finish, a few minutes from where you started.
When to walk in Cayenne
French Guiana has an equatorial climate: hot and humid all year, between 26 and 30 degrees. What limits you is not distance, it is the sun.
- Morning is the best window — the air is easier to breathe and the narrow streets still hold some shade.
- Avoid the middle of the day. The climb to Fort Cépérou becomes genuinely hard work, and many shops close.
- Late afternoon is a good second option, especially for the waterfront and Place des Palmistes.
- Downpours are common from roughly December to June, usually short and heavy. The answer is not an umbrella but a roof: the covered market, the cathedral, the museum.
- From July or August to November, the long dry season makes walking easier, but the sun is stronger. Hat, water, sunscreen.
Where to stay to do it all on foot
This route makes most sense if you sleep in the centre: no hunting for a parking space, and the freedom to head out early or go back out in the evening. Among our properties in French Guiana, two addresses are made for it.
L’écrin tropical is a modernised Creole house in the heart of downtown Cayenne, with its original well and a garden. It sleeps 6 across 3 air-conditioned bedrooms, with two king beds, a double and a bathtub. Place des Palmistes, the covered market, Fort Cépérou and the cathedral are all walkable. From 150 € per night. Book on Airbnb, on Booking, or directly with us, commission-free.
For a couple or a solo traveller, the T2 central Cayenne is the other good downtown option, with private parking — handy when you arrive in a rental car and would rather not touch it again.
The route at a glance
| Stop | What you see | Good to know |
|---|---|---|
| 1. Place des Palmistes | Royal palms, Republic column, statue of Félix Éboué | Start and finish |
| 2. Franconie museum and Place Schœlcher | Creole house, Guianese collections | Opening days vary |
| 3. Covered market | Fruit, spices, crafts, food stalls | Wednesday, Friday, Saturday; come early |
| 4. Creole streets | Shutters, balconies, carved fretwork | Lived-in area, stay discreet |
| 5. Saint-Sauveur Cathedral | 19th-century building, bright interior | Working church |
| 6. Place Léopold-Héder and Fort Cépérou | Ruins, views over river and ocean | Only climb with no shade |
| 7. Waterfront | Ochre water, mangroves, tides | Best late in the day |
Frequently asked questions
How long should I allow?
One morning is enough to link the seven stops without rushing, breaks included. Add the museum and a proper lunch stop and you have a full day. The old town is compact: the pace is set by the climate, not the distance.
Do I need a car for this route?
No, and it is better without one: parking is difficult and the streets are narrow. Leave the car where it is. You will need it for Rémire-Montjoly, Roura or the airport, not for this walk.
Is the market open every day?
No. The tourism board lists Wednesday, Friday and Saturday, with hours that vary from day to day, and public holidays change the calendar. If the market matters to you, check with the tourist office first.
Planning your stay in Cayenne
Old Cayenne does not describe well: it has to be walked. One morning, decent shoes, a bottle of water. We handle the rest.
Amazon Conciergerie manages verified properties in Cayenne, Rémire-Montjoly and Roura: direct booking with no commission, fast support, and a video tour of the property before you book. Message us on WhatsApp, email contact@amazon-conciergerie-guyane.com, use our contact page or send a booking request. To compare neighbourhoods, read where to stay in French Guiana, and see our services.
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